Hindus in a Muslim Country

The Island of Bali in the largest Islamic country in the world is mostly Hindu. So the important ceremony of cremation is a very big deal. There are even group cremations arranged for the poor.

  

Burn it down: Continuing on with the bovine theme, a sarcophagus bursts after just a quick brush with flame. (Photo by David Arthur)

 

 

          The laws of Indonesia set forth by the Sukarno government in the late 1940s make it mandatory to believe in one god, preferably the Islamic god. That often is not enough because just last week the Sunni Muslims of Madura Island forced all of the Shia Muslims from their homes and villages, and the Sunnis, who are in the majority and hold the power in Indonesia, will not allow the Shias to return to their homes until they agree to become Sunni. So it is unusual to see other cultures perform their ceremonies in Indonesia except those that have become part of the dominant culture from the animist past such as represented in the puppet theaters (Wayang).

Puppet master (dalang) and master carver M. Ahim with his wayang puppets in Ciampa, Indonesia, from Voices of the Puppet Masters: The Wayang Golek Theater of Indonesia by Mimi Herbert (2002). Photograph by Tara Sosrowardoyo

 

The Buddhists have been forced to move their meditation site from the famous Buddhist treasure at Borobudur on Java to a small Chinese village several miles removed.

 

 

 

So it will be a unique pleasure to witness Hindu cremation ceremonies on the Island of Bali while staying in Ubud.

Kofi Awoonor, the gentle giant poet from Ghana, was killed this last week at the mall shoot out in Nairobi, Kenya. Awoonor was the poet who dared death and gave hope to millions. Below is one of Awoonor's last poems from his new book, “Promises of Hope: New and Selected Poems,” that will be released in 2014.
We will all miss this great spirit.






ACROSS A NEW DAWN



Sometimes, we read the

lines in the green leaf

run our fingers over the

smooth of the precious wood

from our ancient trees;



Sometimes, even the sunset

puzzles, as we look

for the lines that propel the clouds,

the colour scheme

with the multiple designs

that the first artist put together



There is dancing in the streets again

the laughter of children rings

through the house

On the seaside, the ruins recent

from the latest storms

remind of ancestral wealth

pillaged purloined pawned

by an unthinking grandfather

who lived the life of a lord

and drove coming generations to

despair and ruin



*



But who says our time is up

that the box maker and the digger

are in conference

or that the preachers have aired their robes

and the choir and the drummers

are in rehearsal?



No; where the worm eats

a grain grows.

the consultant deities

have measured the time

with long winded

arguments of eternity



And death, when he comes

to the door with his own

inimitable calling card

shall find a homestead

resurrected with laughter and dance

and the festival of the meat

of the young lamb and the red porridge

of the new corn



*



We are the celebrants

whose fields were

overrun by rogues

and other bad men who

interrupted our dance

with obscene songs and bad gestures



Someone said an ailing fish

swam up our lagoon

seeking a place to lay its load

in consonance with the Original Plan



Master, if you can be the oarsman

for our boat

please do it, do it.

I asked you before

once upon a shore

at home, where the

seafront has narrowed

to the brief space of childhood



We welcome the travelers

come home on the new boat

fresh from the upright tree





From “Promises of Hope: New and Selected Poems,” selected by Kofi Anyidoho, University of Nebraska Press and the African Poetry Book Fund, 2014

It is time to get rid of zoos in our society.

This article from the Jakarta Globe relates devastating conditions at the Zoo in Indonesia's 2nd largest city Surabaya. The zoo spokes person says the deaths were all of natural causes. However, a young giraffe was found to have 20 lbs. of plastic in its stomach.
Endangered Orangutan Dies at Surabaya ‘Zoo of Death’

By Amir Tejo & Arientha Primanita on 4:46 pm September 25, 2013.
Category Featured, News
Tags: Indonesia zoo, Orangutan, Surabaya Zoo

Nanik, the 12-year old Orangutan from Surabaya zoo was seen shortly before she died in the quarantine on Sept. 21, 2013. (JG Photo/Photo courtesy of Surabaya Zoo’s Temporary Management Team)

An endangered Bornean orangutan has died young at Indonesia’s notorious “zoo of death” in Surabaya after succumbing to a tumor in her large intestine, the zoo confirmed on Wednesday.
“The autopsy result showed that there was a tumor in her large intestine,” Surabaya Zoo spokesman Agus Supangkat said. “Her appetite had dropped drastically.”

Nanik, who was also found to have liver problems, was found dead on Sept. 21 at the age of 12 — Bornean orangutans should live to around 60 in captivity.

Agus said a group of veterinarians at the zoo had become aware of the animal’s health problems around two months ago. Vets described the animal’s declining energy levels and increasingly asthenic appearance before she was moved to the zoo’s quarantine facility on Sept. 19.
Animal doctors administered antibiotics, vitamins and an analgesic in quarantine but Nanik made little progress in the following two days.

At 2:45 p.m on Sept. 21, Nanik exhibited difficulties breathing. She died shortly after.
Indonesia’s largest zoo has proved itself to be a macabre animal dungeon, incarcerating some of the world’s most endangered species in shambolic squalor. A giraffe was found dead with almost 20 kilos of plastic in its stomach. A steady diet of formaldehyde-laced meat corroded a Sumatran tiger’s digestive tract. More than 150 pelicans lived cheek-by-bill in a pen no larger than a basketball court. Komodo dragons went missing, an African lion died in pain.

The Indonesian government was forced to take steps after the extent of the scandal caught the attention of international media, from the Huffington Post to London’s Daily Telegraph.
Agus was keen to emphasize that the zoo had improved its practices over the last year, and stressed that Nanik’s death was not attributable to the kind of willful blindness of the zookeepers’ casual sadism that was imparted to animals in the years before the zoo was brought to account.

“Like many places, we also have issues,” he said. “But we have a standard for the animals’ food and we are now improving the treatment.”

Tony Sumampau, a former member of the team drafted in to manage the crisis at the zoo, was not able to comment on Nanik’s cause of death but warned that conditions at the zoo were still far from acceptable.

“The number of animal deaths could be avoided if the management really paid attention to animal welfare,” he said. “They just conduct minimum renovations, such as repairing cages or repainting… What they need to do right now is to totally revamp the zoo to increase animal welfare.”

Agus admitted progress had been slow.

“If we find that some species suffer from overcrowding, we will improve and enlarge the facilities for that species,” he said. “It is in accordance with the improvement of the zoo. We have also improved water facilities for the animals. We are increasing the clear water capacity from city’s water company — and we have stopped using water from the city’s river.”

The issue of overcrowding is more complicated than authorities would prefer.

“We have offered some of the collection to other conservation institution,” Tony said. “Some were accepted, but there were institutions who refused — seeing how Surabaya zoo was managed. Others were afraid that the animals from Surabaya zoo carried diseases.”

Data acquired by the Jakarta Globe show 43 animal deaths at the zoo from several species between July 15 to Sept . 17.

Agus, however, said the zoo saw around 20 animals die per month.

“It is because the animals are old or they have diseases,” he said. “It is all natural causes.”

Hiking Mount Bromo, East Java

The 17,000 islands that make up the nation of Indonesia are all volcanic, many still very active. The island of Java in particular is a string of volcanos including Mt. Bromo on east Java which we will be hiking at 4 in the morning to watch the sunrise

 

 

Mount Bromo which stands tall at 2329 m is one of the most iconic mountain in Indonesia. It beckons majestically despite having the entire top blown off and with a crater inside that keeps spewing off white sulphurous smoke. Mount Bromo is still one of the most active volcanoes in the world and there are areas that are blocked off from tourists due to its imminent danger. It sits inside the massive Tengger caldera (volcanic crater with diameter approximately 10km), surrounded by the Laut Pasir (sea of sand) of fine volcanic sand. This breathtaking and ethereal landscape have been swooned by many travelers alike.

Map of Mount Bromo, Indonesia

Myth has it that Mount Bromo is significant to the Tengger people who believe that the site is where their brave prince sacrificed his life for his family. To appease the Gods, the people will offer food and money by throwing it into the crater of the volcano once a year during annual Kasada (or Kasodo) festival.

Mount Bromo @ East Java, Indonesia

Where is it
Mount Bromo is situated inside Bromo-Tengger-Semeru National Park, beside Mount Semeru at East Java, Indonesia.

Why go
To be awe in nature’s best combination of beauty and danger, an active volcano that can be so foreboding and desolate yet so beautiful. The view itself is almost out of this world and be the reason enough to go there!

Up close with Mount Bromo

When is the best time to go
June – August where there is less rain but more tourists. August is also the month for the Kesada / Kesodo festival for the Tengger people if you are interested.
But that being said, Indonesia being a fairly mild weather of just rain and shine, anytime is a good time to go Mount Bromo, only check out for local weather when you are there for best clear sky for your sunrise experience. If you do not have much days then hope for the best when you are there.
Also try to avoid weekends if you do not want the crowd.

What to see

Tengger woman @ Mount Bromo, Indonesia

Mount Bromo of course.
Tenggerese houses which is unique to its kind, while take some time to understand the fine Tengger people.
A Tenggerese Hindu temple known as The Poten that sits nearby Mount Bromo, looking both eerie and peaceful on the sea of sand.

What to do

Trek to Mount Bromo’s Crater

Hike up Mount Penanjakan in time to catch the sunrise over Mount Bromo. It takes about 1-2 hours hike to the first vantage point. Sun rises at 5.30am, therefore usually you have to plan when to start hiking depending on your fitness level. Maps and information are readily and easily available at one of the many official locations. Extra tip is that you may want to hike earlier to avoid the crowd and get a good spot as you may find a lot of people crowding the vantage point to view the sun rising over Mount Bromo. If you have the time and energy, there is another less-crowded vantage point higher up with unobstructed view of the sunrise. Find and scale the slope behind the shelter to get to the higher flat land.
Trek down Mount Penanjakan and up to Mount Bromo summit. Here you can trek down and then across 3km sand of sea and then upwards to summit the caldera of Mount Bromo. It takes about 1-2 hours again depending on your fitness level.

Road through Sea of Sand to Mount Bromo’s crater

What and where to eat

Every lodge, guesthouse or hotel normally serves food as well for travelers. There are also few independent eateries around to choose from such as Bromo Corner Café and Waroeng Basuki, or you may just head on to simple roadside warungs and enjoy basic local Indonesian food. You should also try out the hot Javanese coffee (kopi panas). All restaurants will open by 3am as that is when most people start to wake for the hike to catch the sunrise.

Catching sunrise @ Mount Bromo, Indonesia

Where to stay

You may find various guesthouses and basic hotels located around Mount Bromo, as that place is popular for tourists. Try to stay nearby so that you can do the morning hike up to catch the sunrise easily. Lots of guesthouses or hotels are situated at the crater rim.

Java Banana Bromo Lodge (affliate link)

But if you want to stay a little bit further away, you may stay in nearby towns such as Malang, or at some of the cool mountain resorts offer spectacular view of Mount Semeru and Mount Arjuna.

How to get there

Horses and The Poten @ Mount Bromo, Indonesia

Fly into Juanda international airport at Surabaya. There are direct flights from Singapore, Kuala Lumpur, Hong Kong, Jakarta and Bali. If you are flying domestic from Jakarta, you may take Sriwijaya that flies twice weekly. Take note of domestic departures cost is 40,000 Rp tax while international departures cost is 200, 000 Rp tax.
Distance from Surabaya airport to the Mount Bromo national park is about 70km and the time it takes is around 4 hours due to heavy traffic and congestion. On the way, you would pass Probolinggo town which lies at the major highway across java. Here is where most backpackers would usually share a transport to take them up to the Bromo Tengger Semeru National park.

How to get around

If you are able, then trekking or walking is the best way to experience Mount Bromo but you may take ponies or horses across the sea of sand to the bottom of the steep stairs that leads to the crater.

Where to go nearby

Mount Bromo with rising smoke

Malang – Cultural capital of East Java
Ijen crater – 6 hours drive away. Magnificent turquoise sulphur lake that exudes flames, blue fire at night and smoky white in the day.

Tips

Bring a jacket and gloves as it may get chilly up there. In a pinch you can rent a jacket at around 25k rupiah and buy a glove at 20k rupiah.

Mount Bromo and Mount Semeru, Java, Indonesia

Photo credits from top: Burmesedays, Share the word, Schristia, Trekity, borderlys, dhodie, Schristia, Yv, riza, Kai Seidler

Photographer Penkdix Palme's Tree Frog from Java

In East Java, Indonesia of our next travels photographer Penkdix Palme, 27, captured the tiny tree frog during a downpour in his neighbour’s back garden.
Palme said, "The rain-shy amphibian clung to the stem of a green leaf for 30 MINUTES as it was lashed by an afternoon storm."

Penkdix Palme photographed the tiny tree frog sheltering from the rain in his neighbour’s back garden ( Penkdix Palme / Newsteam)

In the amazing series of photographs, the two-inch high frog appears to angle the makeshift umbrella towards the direction of the fierce downpour.
Huge droplets of water gather at the bottom of the leaf and surrounding branch while the clever frog remains dry.
Penkdix, who took up photography six months ago, said he was shocked when he stumbled upon the unusual scene in his hometown of Jember, East Java, Indonesia last week.
He said: “I love to photograph frogs so when it started to rain I rushed outside to look for them.

The aquaphobic amphibian clung on to the stem of the green leaf for a staggering 30 MINUTES as it was lashed by wind and rain

The clever frog sits on a leaf as he floats in a puddle using his leaf as a brolly

“I couldn’t believe it when I saw one hugging the leaf and using it like an umbrella.
“I was a bit shocked that a frog seemed so scared of water but it was very overcast and drizzly – he must have been trying to protect himself.
“He stayed there for almost 30 minutes and hopped away after the rain stopped suddenly.
“I was happy with the shot, it looks like it was taken in the jungle but I actually took it at the bottom of my neighbour’s garden.”

Palme's comments are an interesting combination of anthropomorphic guesses concerning the behavior of this frog. Quite possibly the frog is using the leaf not as a tool to for protection from the rain but as a lure for prey.
Any way I am very grateful to Palme for his photos because his home town of Jember is right on our travel plan for the month of October. We will be looking for these little guys from Bogor, Java to Sanur, Bali.

Indonesian Adventure

Okay, it's a new adventure in Indonesia. Beginning Wednesday, October 2nd Ellen and I will be off on an adventure to find her father's home in Bogor, Java. This is a city of about 900,000 residents with a world famous botanical garden. Bogor is about 30 miles south of Jakarta. We will be hiring a guide and hopefully get a chance to spend a few hours on Baby Krakatoa the new volcanic island emerging from the ocean halfway between Sumatra and Java.

Then on Sunday, October 6th we will join 8 other folks to travel from Jakarta, Java to Sanur, Bali.
See the map below with the web site for more information.

http://www.gadventures.com/trips/yolo-java-to-bali/AEKS/2013/