The walk from the hotel to the Robben Island fwerry this early afternoon was wonderfull in the sun after a great breakfast of fruit and yogurt. This city is alive with smiling gentle faces. The ATM works without a hitch. My recharger adapter is not working on the South African plugs so the guy at the desk gives me one that works just fine. How cool is that!!
This sparrow joins me while I have my first pint of Castle while waiting for the Robben Island Ferry. The bill for the beer comes to R22 about $3. I have 2 R20 bills and several R200s. I offer a 200, the waitress says she can't possibly break it. I give her my 2 20s and she walks off to get help with the change. After a moment she comes back and hands me one of my 20s saying, "It will only be 20, thank you very much." How cool is that again!!"
We leave port and about half way to Robben Island are greeted by a flotilla of Jackass Penguins. All my thoughts have been about Mandela, and I am greeted by these little guys with the white goggles. Click on them for a close view.
My first impressions on leaving the ferry are that I am back on Año Nuevo Island or Alcatraz. The smell of guano is overpowering; this island is covered with rookeries.
There are comorants nesting 2 species like a Pelagic and Brandt. There are lots of young males in the air their beaks full of kelp trying to attract the females. There are several nests with eggs already.
Solid black Oystercatchers with their red beaks and legs.
A fly-cathcer, swallows, 2 species of nesting gulls, the larger very similar to Western Gulls.
This is the cemetery for the leper colony on the island. I have never heard of this part of Robben's history. And I don't hear any more from the guides. There are 2 small children from Spain sitting next to me, and we are looking at the pájaros nest beside the road. They are more of the penguins. All I can hear now is shouts of, "¡Mira, mama Mira!"
We are hearded on a bus and given a quick island tour by a young man who is convinced that the "Truth and Reconciliation" campaign is the only way to th future. He is actually quite impressive but a bit long winded.
We are dumped in front of the prison with no directions, so we wander in and sit in a long barrack room. Here we are greeted by a former inmate of the prison, Billy Nair.
Billy Nair was imprisioned on trumped up charges of sabotage in February 1964 and released in February 1984. He was not with the political prisoners, but he did exchange many messages with them. I notice on his prison card that he is Hindu. Billy's mouth has been distorted by beatings and it is very difficult to understand him.
The window from Mandela's cell has a view of a small walled-in yard for exercise. But the smell of the rookeries pervades everything here. A pair of Egyptian Geese flies over head and 6 Francolins are forraging just out side the front gate.
When I am by myself I can hear the surf, birds, breeze, and a baby crying in the distance. I wonder what the sounds were that Mandela listened for in his solitude. I know what he was smelling!
